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The Average Climber Podcast

Plug Tone Audio | The Average Climber Podcast

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A podcast for the average rock climber featuring the training and nutrition information the everyday climber needs to know. Hosted by Lauren Abernathy, Head Coach and Founder of Good Spray Climbing, and Certified Nutrition Specialist, Caitlin Holmes. Come to learn about climbing, stay for the goofy antics. You’re in for a good time.
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Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history, one decade at a time. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then. Season Two is focused on the 1980’s. The birth of sport climbing as we know it, the struggles with changing rules and ethics, the wo ...
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Sends And Suffers

Mario Stanley | Plug Tone Audio

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Welcome to Sends and Suffers—the podcast where the grit of the climb meets the story’s soul. I’m your host, Mario Stanley, coming at you from Texas. The road is rough, but every twist has a purpose. We’re diving into triumph, failure, and hard-earned wisdom. Where every guest brings tales from the highest sends to the toughest struggles. So, saddle up—because this ride’s as wild and untamed as the host, the guest, and the stories you’re about to hear.
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The American Climbing Project

Plug Tone Audio | Devin Dabney

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The American Climbing Project is a podcast mixtape focused on all your social climbing needs, and then some. It addresses various topics in climbing, with an intentional deviation from performance and training. The focuses will change, but will always center on vulnerability, candid conversation, and a desire to reflect the voice of everyday climbers.
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Your Healing Nature features Black Indigenous People of Color (BIPOC) who are reclaiming the outdoors to heal individual and/or collective trauma. The guest storytellers on this podcast include sponsored athletes, conservationists, outdoor educators, founders of for- and non-profits, urban farmers, creatives and so much more. These innovative, heart-centered individuals redefine the outdoors, the outside, in a way that diverges from what mainstream America has thought of as “the great outdoo ...
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show series
 
🚨 SPECIAL RELEASE 🚨 LAUREN HERE: Last September I created a limited release podcast that only went out to about 100 people. I got a lot of great feedback on it. I decided to re-release it during our break. There are four episodes and I'll be releasing them over the next four weeks! This is episode 4. This series is meant to be listened to IN ORDER.…
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By the middle of the 1980s, the shift to sport climbing was in full swing. Two Wyoming cowboys, Paul Piana and Todd Skinner, recognized that the strength they’d gained from sport climbing would give them an advantage on projects left behind by the previous generation. However, that previous generation wasn’t so quick to embrace the changes. Particu…
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🚨 SPECIAL RELEASE 🚨 LAUREN HERE: Last September I created a limited release podcast that only went out to about 100 people. I got a lot of great feedback on it. I decided to re-release it during our break. There are four episodes and I'll be releasing them over the next four weeks! This is episode 3. This series is meant to be listened to IN ORDER.…
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Employing good tactics is something all climbers should do, but there is a point at which continuing a tactical approach can slow your climbing gains. That is, unless you make sure you don't skip this step... Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, ep…
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Rob LeBreton wears a lot of hats. First, he’s a long time friend of the show, but he’s also a dad, husband, gym owner, former president of Sport Climbing Australia, and absolute climbing legend - the first Australian to establish climbs of 31 and 32 (13d and 14a) in Australia. After the Snowbird episode came out, Rob sent me a video of the finals t…
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🚨 SPECIAL RELEASE 🚨 LAUREN HERE: Last September I created a limited release podcast that only went out to about 100 people. I got a lot of great feedback on it. I decided to re-release it during our break. There are four episodes and I'll be releasing them over the next four weeks! This is episode 2. If you haven't listened to episode 1 yet - go ba…
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In my coaching and consultations with climbers, it’s become pretty obvious that there are common bouldering grade plateaus at around V4, V6 or 7, and V9 or 10, and that the vast majority of stuck boulderers fall into these three ranges. There is a single, relatively small skillset that can help climbers break through these common bouldering grade p…
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Alan Watts is widely recognized as the father of American sport climbing and a leading developer at Smith Rock. However, most don’t know about his impact on the indoor climbing industry in the US or the fact that in 1988 he set for the very first international climbing competition in the country - Snowbird. In this episode we discuss his role as ro…
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🚨 SPECIAL RELEASE 🚨 LAUREN HERE: Last September I created a limited release podcast that only went out to about 100 people. I got a lot of great feedback on it. I decided to re-release it during our break. There are four episodes and I'll be releasing them over the next four weeks! This is episode 1. What it takes to win a game. ______________ Welc…
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After working with thousands of sport climbers, I’ve noticed a pattern of climbers getting stuck at around 11c, then 12b, and again at 13a. One of the hallmarks of routes at these grade bottlenecks is that it gets harder to find stable positions. The climber who hopes to move further will need to be comfortable in that instability. And while it's t…
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In 1985, 19 of the top French climbers signed a manifesto against competition climbing. But competitions came anyway. Quickly, most of those same signees defected - becoming the climbers to beat at every event. As happens in every competitive sport, rivalries were formed, and would play out in the vertical theater. In 1988, America would host its f…
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We're on break but that doesn't mean we don't have things we want to share with you. This week we're highlighting a fellow PlugToner, Mario Stanley. Mario is the host and creator of the Sends and Suffers Podcast. A renaissance man through and through, he is a climber, coach, filmmaker, podcaster, former route setter, advocate for making climbing ac…
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Have you ever tried a hard climb or a hard move and immediately said, “I just need to get stronger,” but then a few attempts later you just do the thing? Did you somehow magically get stronger in those few attempts? No, of course not. A lot of things could have happened in those few attempts, but what didn’t happen is you gaining strength. We shoul…
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A big part of my research for any UK climber ends up being first, climbing-history.org run by Remus Knowles, but then immediately after I start reading endless threads on UKclimbing.com. While there, I often bump into an authoritative voice who obviously absolutely LOVES climbing history. Ted Kingsnorth. I first came across Ted’s name when he made …
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We're taking a break! See you back here in August! EPISODE TOPIC REQUEST FORM https://forms.gle/GAinnha1sG8EveUB9 LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CREW www.goodsprayclimbing.com/the-crew last day to enroll for July is 6/27! Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signupBy Plug Tone Audio | The Average Climber Podcast
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When it comes to putting effort into climbing, there are 3 types of climber. All can be effective, but one type is ALWAYS better. Which are you? Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Try Harder Toolkit Metrics for Clim…
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In 1984, Jerry Moffatt was quite possibly the best climber in the world. A year later, he was out of climbing entirely, with severe elbow problems. During his couple of years off, climbing moved on without him - and it moved fast. Bolts became the norm, yo-yo ascents were all but gone, replaced by redpoint tactics, difficulty had skyrocketed from 1…
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Not all training needs to be indoors. If you're lucky enough to be able to spend a large amount of your time outside, it might make sense to use some of that time for training rather than performance. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss examples of how we can do this without sacrificing our performance time. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE F…
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Beyond being a top athlete, Wolfgang Güllich was also a training nerd and developed the campus board. Because of this, I knew I needed to talk to Mark Anderson. Mark is one of the twin Anderson Brothers - both great climbers and pioneers in the training space. They wrote The Rock Climbers Training Manual, developed the Rock Prodigy Hangboard and Tr…
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"If I train my endurance enough, I'll never get pumped and I'll never fall" If that's the way you're approaching your endurance training, this episode is for you. Improving your pumpy climbing abilities has a lot to do with A. your forearm endurance and B. how well you can keep your cool when the pump sets in. In this episode, we're taking you thro…
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Toe-hooking is a technique that is very often misunderstood in two principal ways. This confusion leads to toe hooks seeming harder and more like sorcery than other techniques. But you’re probably just going about it the wrong way. Most people don’t need to get stronger. They need to get better. They need a better understanding of the move itself..…
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After establishing Punks in the Gym, the first 14a (8b+), Wolfgang Güllich was looking for a change. First he accepted an invitation to a competition in Bardonecchia, Italy. It left a bad taste in his mouth. Over the next year, after doing a few more hard routes, he experimented with bold climbing on gritstone and free soloing, culminating in his f…
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Want to eat better? You have to change your behavior. Follow a training plan? Gotta change your behavior. Stick to a stretching routine? You guessed it - BEHAVIOR CHANGE. Changing your behavior is the root of everything you want to accomplish. In this episode, we're giving you six killer tips (beyond "Atomic Habits" stuff) to help you change your b…
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When I finished my 100th 5.13 sport climb and was writing a book about the lessons I learned along the way, something became clear to me. There is one single skill that trumps all others when it comes to being able to climb 5.13. It’s not better footwork, it’s not a stronger pull-up, and it’s not more finger strength. Those things can – and often d…
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Thanks for listening. We're back next week with our regular season. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab. This episode is supported by Tension Climbing and The Tension Board 2. Written…
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Over 40 years ago, Mountain Magazine published an article by Rosie Andrews called No Spare Rib. Filled with photos of strong women and asserting that women would eventually climb at the highest levels while explaining why they were behind in the 80s, it did two things: inspired some and ruffled the feathers of others. Today, women like Brooke Rabou…
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Dr. Evan Ingerson is back and this time we're tackling CORE TRAINING FOR CLIMBERS. Get the perspective of a physical therapist (Evan) and a coach (Lauren) as they dissect the big questions of core training like... - Should your core training be climbing specific? - How can you tell if your core is "low hanging fruit"? - What are the most common cor…
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The length of time we spend working a project often depends on the strength of our projecting game – particularly what we do on those important working attempts. Many of us either keep working things when we should have sent weeks ago, or we cut off the working goes and start redpoint attempts way too early. The best climbers put themselves into se…
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Louise Shepherd was and is a juggernaut for women’s climbing, particularly in Australia, where she did for climbing what Lynn Hill did in the US - make it impossible to ignore that women are excellent at this. And this was before everybody got the news from everywhere immediately - so, yes, there needed to be a palpable example in all of the climbi…
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Should you take a week off or keep climbing on that tweaky finger? If a move makes your shoulder hurt a LOT but it feels fine 5 minutes later, what does that mean? If injury and pain feel confusing (or frustrating) to you - which is understandable - this episode with Climbing DPT Evan Ingerson is right up your alley. He has been working with climbe…
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There's one simple thing that can result in the biggest performance gains in your climbing, no matter what level you’re at. And you can implement it right now. I’m going to tell you not only what this simple superpower is, but also what the sports research says about how you can give it an even greater boost... Read the rest on the blog! Watch the …
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Alison Osius is easily one of the most impactful people in climbing media. She helped to shape how so many climbers learned more about and engaged with the sport from the 80s into the 20s. She’s a former editor at Climbing, Rock and Ice and Outside, the first woman president of the American Alpine Club, wrote Second Ascent: The Story of Hugh Herr a…
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If you're someone who trains in the evenings after a long day of work - we see you, we feel you, and we know that some afternoons get totally off track. In this episode we're guiding you through the process of saving yourself from saying "eh, I'll just move that session to tomorrow". If you ever struggle with evening training motivation - this is f…
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Lynn Hill is THE legend, and quite possibly the most impactful climber of all time. I could make a case that Lynn's free ascent in a day of The Nose is the greatest climbing achievement of all time. But Lynn and I aren't talking about Lynn. We're talking about the other women of the 80s: the women she climbed with, competed against and was inspired…
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This episode features some b roll that we recorded for the hell of it. For those of you looking for some nutrition help when you're thinking about big days out in the elements, this episode will have some tasty tips for you. Plus, if you're one of those climber-runner types - this episode has plenty of nutrition tips you'll want to tune in for. *A …
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Today I sit down with my good friend Amy Skinner - who, in the early 80s in Las Vegas, sort of stumbled into the scene that would eventually be called sport climbing. We discuss that movement, where she first encountered other female climbers, who her favorite female climbing partners have been, and more. Like many of the women who have been mentio…
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Ever wondered what it's like to boulder in France? What if your rest days could be a day trip to Paris? In this episode Caitlin is giving us all the details on her recent trip to Fontainebleau. This episode is two parts travel guide and one part chat between two good friends. If you're looking for climbing trip ideas, tune in ASAP. PLAY NUTRITION B…
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In Part 3 of our series on female climbers of the 1980s, we wrap up the decade with difficulty reaching new heights. We see a smart pattern start to emerge at the top of the pack as women realize how to leverage their unique strengths, and in doing so, they prove themselves with resounding success at the most futuristic crag in the world - Buoux. I…
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With the limitless options for how you can climb something, it's understandable that you might be looking over your shoulder every now and again for beta that feels better. So how do you decide if you need to ditch your beta for an upgrade, or stick with it and try harder? We're serving up 6 tips to help clear that up. PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAI…
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In Part 2 of our series on women climbers of the 1980s, we focus on the middle of the decade, when difficulty soared. We take a closer look at the 1984 International Ladies Meet hosted by The Pinnacle Club in North Wales, how it connects to the women who were at the forefront of sport climbing a year later, and how standards began to skyrocket. We …
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In this snack break, we're talking about - you guessed it: SNACKS. Our top 10 favorite snacks to eat outside and why. If you're looking for some inspo for your next trip to the grocery store, look no further - we've got you covered. Register now for THE CREW! Last day to enroll is 4/11/25. LAUREN LINKS: 1. Get on Lauren's newsletter for a chance at…
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The history of women in climbing, in it’s written form, is woefully incomplete. In this, the first of a multi-part series, we attempt to correct some of these oversights by taking a look at not only the early 80s, but the years and accomplishments that laid the foundation for the women of the 80s. In this episode, we discuss Bev Johnson, Sibylle He…
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Today we have a big, bad listener Q&A episode covering topics like: - how to start from square one when it comes to fear management - what to do if you're always starving when you climb outside - the deal with caloric deficits + climbing training - how to get an effective route session done in 90 minutes or less - preventing burnout and MORE. Thank…
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If you feel as stiff as a board and it sucks to walk down the stairs, we need to talk. In this episode we're tackling the topic of delayed onset muscle soreness. How to prevent it and what to do if you're experiencing it. HINT: managing and preventing DOMS may require tweaks to your training and nutrition. Tune in! RPE Training: https://youtu.be/yZ…
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Should we be sharing Lauren's signature coaching framework on air for all to hear? Top chefs would tell us to keep the secret recipe under-wraps. But, eh, we aren't the type to gate keep. If you've ever felt overwhelmed, unsure, or confused about decisions in your programming - this episode is for you. You're about to learn a process that will take…
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If we could wave a magic wand and give every climber three nutrition skills - this is what we'd pick. Tune in to hear all about them. Do you have these skills, or if could you use a tune up? CAITLIN LINKS: 1. Get on the Resource Vault NOW 2. Join Caitlin's Newsletter LAUREN LINKS: 1. LAUREN'S SECRET LIST OF MYSTERY AND RIDDLES 2. Get on Lauren's ne…
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Because this season is focused on the 1980’s, and we are talking about the two best free soloists of their generations, Peter Croft and John Bachar, there is a Venn Diagram that puts today’s guest squarely in the center: Jeff Smoot. In Jeff’s book Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change and the Race for 5.14, he tells the tale of the beginnings of sport cli…
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Does Alex Honnold need an introduction? No, of course he doesn’t. But he was particularly suited for this conversation about Bachar and Croft for several reasons: #1, Alex is a student of history. He cares about this stuff. If you haven’t listened to his Climbing Gold podcast, you should. I highly recommend the Dope Lake series - it’s a 5 part seri…
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