Yara Herrera (Hellbender restaurant--Queens, NY) on Standing Out, Fitting in, and Honing Your Culinary Voice

Andrew Talks to Chefs

Chef Yara Herrera, a native of Los Angeles, worked in some of LA's most demanding kitchens (Spago, Providence, Majordomo) before moving to New York City and Momofuko Ko. During the pandemic, after gaining attention for her own food in pop-up form, she was approached by the owners of Rolo's--the hit restaurant in Ridgewood, Queens--about partnering on a Mexican-American restaurant, which came to be in the form of Hellbender. In this free-ranging conversation, Yara discusses her circuitous route to the kitchen and why it took several years to begin exploring the cuisine of her own heritage.

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THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW:

Andrew is a writer by trade. If you'd like to support him, there's no better way than by purchasing his most recent book, The Dish: The Lives and Labor Behind One Plate of Food (October 2023), about all the key people (in the restaurant, on farms, in delivery trucks, etc.) whose stories and work come together in a single restaurant dish.

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