EP 74 Finding “Joy” in My Pantry with Tex Mex Migas

As We Eat

Join us on a journey of unexpected joy found right in Kim’s pantry, all thanks to the timeless culinary companion, "The Joy of Cooking" by Irma Rombauer. In today's episode, Leigh and Kim dive into the story of finding the inspiration to transform some stale tortilla chips and a forgotten can of green chiles into a delicious Tex Mex dish, and why Joy has earned its place as a culinary classic.

Feeling a bit discouraged by a half-bare pantry after a long week, Kim turned to "The Joy of Cooking" in hopes of finding some cooking inspiration within its 6,000 recipes - after all, its original cover artwork depicts St. Barbara, the purported Patron Saint of Cooking, deftly defying the Dragon of Cooking Drudgery. Surely the Rombauer clan could help summon some kitchen inspiration.

While thumbing through the extensive section on Egg cookery, Kim stumbled upon the perfect solution for several odd, leftover ingredients - Tex Mex Migas. Utilizing some stale tortilla chips, some eggs and cheese, a leftover can of green chiles, and some fresh chorizo - we had a tasty breakfast that, while perhaps not an original Joy recipe, made sensible use of ingredients, saved food from becoming waste, and became a joyful culinary experience.

Tracing the history of "Joy of Cooking" from its 1931 origin as Irma Rombauer's financial endeavor, we reflect on a poignant excerpt from Irma's preface before delving into the drama surrounding the 1997 edition's revisions, with an irascible book editor shifting Joy’s warm, collegial tone into newer (and trendier) health-conscious territory.

We wrap our episode debating whether a cookbook like "Joy" should be seen as a historical artifact or a practical kitchen tool. Drawing parallels with struggles in adapting recipes from older cookbooks, such as "The Women’s Suffrage Cookbook" and "The Settlement Cookbook," we ponder the role of a cookbook in reflecting its time versus being a timeless guide for preparing and serving food.

FOOTNOTE:

Kim did make the Pimento-Cheese Bread, and while she struggled with some of the chemistry of baking, the loaf was delivered and served to her colleagues. One said, “oh, I thought it was store-bought!” which had her wondering whether that was a compliment or whether she needed more practice.

Sources We Found Helpful for this Episode

A Heaping Cupful of Conflict - Los Angeles Times

Does the World Need Another ‘Joy’? Do You? - The New York Times

Episodes that we Recommend

Episode 20: Grain Empires: The Wheat Belt, American Innovation, and A Kitchen Confidante

Episode 35: What’s in Your Pantry? Food Label Dates and Major Grey’s Chutney

Episode 55: Refinding Home: Edna Lewis, The Taste of Country Cooking, and Me

Episode 56: Beef A Là Mode: A recipe to bring you home

Episode 59: Bon Appétit! How Julia Child Made America Fall in Love with French Food

Episode 60: Coq au Whatever: Mastering an Iconic French Provincial Dish

Episode 61: How to Cook and Eat in Chinese: Dishing up Culture

Episode 62: Unveiling the Rich Tapestry of Chinese Cuisine with Red and White Cooking

Recipes You Really Need to Try

Migas With Scrambled Eggs, Tortilla Chips, & Chiles - Serious Eats

Transcript

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