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117 Surf Every Day: How DJ Morris Found Flow in Winter Waves

 
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Manage episode 477651039 series 124285
Content provided by Michael Frampton and Surf Mastery Podcast. All podcast content including episodes, graphics, and podcast descriptions are uploaded and provided directly by Michael Frampton and Surf Mastery Podcast or their podcast platform partner. If you believe someone is using your copyrighted work without your permission, you can follow the process outlined here https://ppacc.player.fm/legal.

What happens when a lifelong connection to the ocean turns into a mission to surf every single day through winter?

Whether you're a surfer, an ocean lover, or someone chasing consistency in your passions, this episode dives deep into the transformative power of daily dedication and the personal growth that comes from truly connecting with the ocean. If you've ever wondered how doing something every day could reshape your mindset, this is for you.

  • Hear how DJ Morris turned his childhood love of the ocean into a thriving surf school and daily surfing ritual.

  • Discover the surprising challenges and benefits of surfing every day through a New Zealand winter.

  • Learn the biggest beginner mistakes in surfing—and how to actually pick the right board for your skill level and local waves.

Tune in now to get inspired by DJ’s story of ocean connection, consistency, and the joy of sharing surfing with others—this episode might just change the way you approach your own passions.

Follow Dee Jay on Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/deejaymorris/

Hawkes Bay Surf School:

https://www.facebook.com/HawkesBaySurfSchool/

Song - Fernweh By Nachur

The Surf Mastery Podcast

For the passionate surfer—whether you're a weekend warrior, a surf dad, or an older surfer—this podcast is all about better surfing and deeper stoke. With expert surf coaching, surf training, and surfing tips, we’ll help you catch more waves, refine your paddling technique, and perfect your pop up on a surfboard. From surf workouts to handling wipeouts, chasing bigger waves, and mastering surf technique, we’re here to make sure you not only improve but truly enjoy surfing more—so you can get more out of every session and become a wiser surfer. Go from Beginner or intermediate Surfer to advanced

Transcript

When did you start surfing?

Started surfing probably around like properly, going out around the age of 10. So I actually started in surf lifesaving when I was seven. . And that got me not introduced to the ocean, but just got me confident in the waves and that, and then ended up. Yeah. Going from those long paddleboards into a short board that someone found on the beach, I think had been fixed up.

Yeah. It was an old season board and the nose had actually been snapped off and they had fixed it by just rounding the nose. And then gave you that a whack and Yeah. Fell in love with it. . Yeah, so that was about 10 years old. And then kept going.

And that was just out here.

That was at Waimarama

So I grew up at Waimarama, still living at Waimarama. Have moved around a bit. But yeah, back there Raising a family.

Do you remember like the first time you caught like a green wave? Yeah. Like really?

Yeah. I definitely remember that what actually wasn't even on that board that I was talking about.

It was on a, so my dad used to, , manage bars and run nightclubs and he had an a mate that had a lion red like longboard or mini mal. Mini mal . Yeah. And I remember him being like, oh, you gotta come out of the whitewash and come right out the back. And it wasn't, it mustn't have been that big. Felt big.

And then he pushed me in on it, and I just remember that feeling like, whoa, okay. Did it. And then actually paddled that board back out to him so I could do it again. Yeah. And what does surfing mean to you now? Surfing means everything to me like. At the moment it's, well, it's every day.

And then I, , part owner with Bronson Primer in the surf school, Hawke Space Surf School. So it's my income and it's my outlet and yeah, I'm focused in on it. Like super focused in on it at the moment. Yeah. Yeah. Just loving it. So every day at the moment. Tell us about that. Yeah, so surfing every day of winter, it wasn't even meant to be like this thing that it's kind of turned into.

It was just kind of a goal for myself to more connect with the ocean and, 'cause I'm doing the surf lessons I wanted to. Get out and get that connection properly in tune with it, and teaching people how to get in that connection. And I thought, well, through winter, I'm not the biggest fan of like cold weather in the winter here.

So I was like, I'll make a challenge for myself. But then I got real into like documenting it.

Mm-hmm.

And I put it out on social media and that was for like, , how can I explain it? To , make it accountable? Yeah. So if I did stop, people might reach out and be like, Hey, you didn't even make it. So that kept it going, but then it got easier and easier.

Like, well, it hasn't been hard yet. Because I love surfing and I love getting out there. There's been a couple of dicey days that were like, yeah, oh, , I'm not even gonna make it out where there was no back to get out to. So I just grabbed the foam top and jumped on a couple of little ones on the

inside.

Yeah.

But yeah, surfing every day of winter, it's been awesome. Yeah. Day 81 today,

day 81. So what, technically there's 90 days. Yeah. Yeah. Technically. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.

Going through it.

Yeah. Oh cool. And what is it getting colder and colder as you go? The water

it has, but then like, I dunno if I'm getting used to it more, but there's like colder places like Te Awanga for example.

That little outlet of the river that's real cold. Yep. And then I surfed a couple of times at Perfume Point off Napier.

Yep.

And yeah, that was freezing. But the wetsuits that we have now are mean. Yeah. Like can't beat them. Rocking those four threes booties. It's my second season ever in my life. In booties.

Yeah. First season was last year and I was like, didn't know if I was onto it. And just a different feel, eh? Like I know. I liked feeling the board. Yeah. And then, yeah. Put them on and Yeah. Yeah. You get to a certain age and your

feet just start hurting in the cold. Like it's, you can't not

wear

them.

Yeah.

That's definitely it. Yeah. Wait, you gone gloves? I didn't wanna put that one Gloves yet? Age no gloves yet? No. Gloves

and hoodies messed me up. Even I've, I've only just gotten used to the earplugs.

Hmm.

I don't hear yourself. Do you wear earplugs? Yeah, I wear

earplugs. If I don't, I'm so prone to ear infection, so I'm just used to them now.

Oh yeah. I wear the surfers one so you can still hear. Yeah. Yeah, I got those one. It's not the same. No. And it does take a bit of getting used to. Yeah. But, um, yeah,

and my hearing's bad, like already, so when I've got those in and people are talking to me, I'm like, yep. I'm like screaming at them.

Yeah. You could, the docks plugs, have you seen those?

You could try those. Yeah. They've, they've vented. So they don't, what I find is that it's not about stopping all of the water. It's about stopping, the pressure of the water going in. So there, there's these ones called vented docks, and they've got a little hole in them so you can actually hear pretty good.

Oh, true. And they let a little bit of water in, but there's no, like lots of, there's no pressure and no lots of water going in. Yeah. Those, those, uh, those do okay for me as well. But, um, yeah, no, earplugs are just a. A habit for me now. You get used to it Nice sort of thing. Yeah. But yeah,

slowly getting used to it, so, yep.

It's good. You get

to know the next age bracket is when you have to wear gloves when it's cold. Otherwise your hands just hurt. Stop moving.

Yeah. Luckily I've, I've surfed in like cold or times where I remember my hands freezing up. This winter has been like, everybody's saying that it's been like quite a wet, bad winter and I'm like, man, it's been mint for me.

I don't know. Yeah. Just in a different flow of things, I guess. Yeah.

So every, every day this winter. And has anyone joined you? Anyone jumped on the bandwagon

No, not really. No. Joining me to come every day, but heaps of people I've been surfing with. Yeah. Yeah. There's a couple of local guys out at WA that I kind of rope in when it gets to a decent size and I'm like, I don't really wanna surf by myself.

And I go jump around there and be like, you guys want to come out? They're like, yeah, as a kid. I'm like, yeah, it's real good. But yeah, it's been, it's been fun. Yeah, definitely been fun.

What do you think that consistency does for your surfing?

Oh man, I was talking to someone about this. I reckon it's got me into like this perfect flow state on, on surfing and the way that this has been moving, , going on tv, which is weird.

It's just hooked people into it. And then yeah. But with this surfing side, I've definitely seen a different style come outta myself because I've been changing boards up quite a lot at the moment.

Mm-hmm.

And. I've been surfing like to myself, like real good. I don't know. It's just, yeah, like I said, connecting.

Yeah, especially with the ocean and that and knowing where to be. Like I used to kind of rush surfs. Like it would be like on a timeline or I'd jump out just because there's a wave that I've seen. But now I can just walk down to the beach and be like, oh yeah, that looks like a good little spot. Sit there, watch it.

And then even days where it's like, okay, I gotta get this done 'cause I've got other stuff to do. I can now time it at like, oh yeah, I know this Tide, the wind's doing this. . So like that connection's really helped.

Mm. Yeah. 'cause you get in tune with the tide, the banks. Yeah. The wind. And you just, and I've been, and I

can see the banks like moving.

Yeah. It's crazy. Like different little peaks and that. . So it's been, yeah. Definitely helped my surfing.

Yeah. It's like a long-term relationship surfing.

Yeah, it is. Yeah. Finally got it back.

Yeah. But no, the, the longer you stick with it, the more effort you put in, the more it gives back, you know?

Yeah. That's it.

Yeah, it's been cool, like going to just beaches along, in Hawke's Bay and just yeah, finding that right wave and people even messaging me like, oh, there's a wave coming over here. We'll be surfing today. Yeah, I'm going out now. Okay. Let's go find it. Oh, cool. Yeah.

How would you describe your relationship to the ocean?

I've got a long relationship with the ocean. I love it. I. Can't be away from it too long, even if it is just a flat body of ocean. No swell I grew up around it obviously my whole life, but my dad and my granddad were fishermen. So I live off it as well, like during the, well now during the summer, love seafood, love fish, gather from it, and then now my business is in it.

So I spend a lot of time with it and then respect it as well. Like a lot. Mm-hmm. Because I know as my first job, I was a lifeguard, so I know what it can take from us and what it can give. So, you know, I love, love the ocean.

Was any gnarly experiences as a lifeguard?

Yeah, like we had a few, we never had.

Drownings, like we saw them drowning and then they drowned. It was just like searching for bodies that had been, and that's pretty gnarly. Like Mm, like you know that someone's out there, but it's been too long for them to be alive, so you know that they're probably gone. But then you got like the family there that are holding on hope and you kind of want to.

Give them hope. Mm. But you know, an hour out there in that condition. Yeah. Unless they're on the beach somewhere lost, they're definitely gone. And yeah, you grab your fins and your tube and you have to go out. Or like when I first started, 'cause I was the rookie, you jump in the water with your fins and tube.

And you're just floating and there's other guys in the boat and you're just sitting out like, I wanna find them, but I don't want to touch them.

Yeah. Oh, that's heavy.

Yeah. Yeah. But then beach crashes. Oh, well, yeah. People, uh, not crashes. People running into the water and there's like holes or a sandbar and just banging their knees out and like coming up and you're like, oh, yeah.

Yeah. How long did you do that for? So that was my first paid job. I did it, so I used to compete in it. So I did the boards and did the swimming. Then really got into the, , irb, so the racing boats, it was just a bit, more adrenaline really and real fun. Had a lot of mates that we all did it together. So I think I kind of left when I was around 18, 19.

So I did it for. Yeah. Probably a good 10 years. Mm-hmm. Mm.

And then surfing kind of took o, kept that relationship going with the ocean. Yeah, yeah,

yeah. I went straight into surfing. Mm-hmm. And just kept that up. Yeah. But then I kind of dropped out for a while as well. Some of us do. I went into the hospitality scene and that kind of took over majority of.

, well good. Seven to eight years.

Yeah.

And I was like on and off surfing, so I was , oh yeah. Go out for a wave. But kind of lost that, , fitness level. Mm-hmm. Was definitely it. Doing late nights and then Yeah. Everything that comes with

hospitality. Yeah.

So, yeah. Didn't lose touch with the ocean, but definitely lost like the flow of it.

Yeah. And just, yeah, it was kind of. If I was around it, I would surf. Yep. Not like hunting a swell or, yeah.

And now it's every day obviously. And you've also, , bought into the surf school. Yeah. What was that transition like going from surfing being a passion to then it being teaching it for a living?

Like did, help them out during summers. Yep. For probably two years. Oh yeah. Yeah. So I got a taste of it then. Mm-hmm. And it's, yeah, like it's pretty cool as you know, like teaching someone how to surf, just the energy and the water when people are like catching their own wave and being able to stand up and finally it's like one of those things, when you really wanna do something and they're the people that are coming to the beach and then they finally do it it's.

Like an energy wave just comes over you. Mm. And but it was a cool transition, it's been, yeah. Awesome.

Yep. What has it taught

you about your own surfing? , probably Oh, gaining that connection, seeing how stoked they are just to be in the water, catching anything.

And then you kind of pick up little tips.

Sometimes you're just in the flow of things and you're teaching them something and then you're like, oh man, I need to do that a little bit more. You know? It's, yeah, you're analyzing them and then once you go and do something and you're like, I've said to someone to do that and I'm not doing it myself.

Yeah. Like, just breathe, relax, you know, things, little things. Yeah.

Yeah, there, it's a reflection of what you need. You're always teaching yourself in some way.

Oh yeah, definitely.

Yeah. Yeah. And you mentioned boards, like what's,

what board are you riding at the moment? At the moment I'm riding this twin fin, , J Dub five eight.

Like it's real thick, real easy to paddle. It's been like a hand me down while I. It was made for one of our mates, Damien. Then Bronson got it and then was like, this is too short. I was like, I'll give it a go. It was like perfect for Te Awanga.

Yeah.

I imagine when you first started working with the surf school as an employee, and now fast forward, what, four years is it?

Yeah, been four years.

What's changed in the way you teach an absolute beginner?

, probably the confidence in teaching. Like when I first started it was kind of like, okay, I know how to surf and I know like what I'm doing in the ocean.

But then it was kind of relaying it to them in a way that they get it

because

I'm trying to teach, like you say, you teach yourself everything, but I'm saying it how I. Probably wanted to hear it where it needs to be, not, not that it's like dumbed down or anything, but put into terms where it's go slower.

Where I'd just be like, get up, get up, get up. You can do it. You know? Then, then it's like, actually I'm like shouting at them to stand up quicker, where it's like, okay, just breathe. Take your time. Get your balance first. Stand up.

Mm-hmm.

So I think that's , changed a bit. The way that I teach them is.

How it's kind of changed into it and then yeah , it's been been pretty cool showing them how to catch waves surf, obviously.

. What's the biggest, mistake that you see the beginner in that early learner make? ,

biggest mistake. Like when we are teaching them or, or even

when you just see them

Oh.

Like sometimes rushing and then kind of confidence level to what the, their level actually is and probably boards. . Like we were talking about Yeah. The wrong

board.

Oh, yeah. But. You just need to pick the right, well, yeah, pick the right board is probably the biggest one. I'm trying to think , actually last time I was seeing somebody learning Yeah.

Like they go hard out and get, you know, performance boards from the shops that are selling them here. Like, I don't, you go into, I reckon surf shops would sell a whole lot more boards if it was for the waves that we've got here.

Yep. I agree this, but the industry just gives them the latest.

Yeah. Whatever John John's writing, the industry pumps to them and yeah, someone comes in, I need a board, and they're like.

And I was a sucker for that when I was younger. Yeah. We all, yeah. I was like, go in and be like, oh, that one. Then I'd paddle it out. But it was a lot, um, lighter on the feet. But yeah, for the waves that we get here, like even when we are sending, , like our, our, um, students to go find a board and you know, they've.

Not just mastered the foamy, but you can tell that they don't want a foamy. Yeah, we try push it always. Yeah. Especially kids, like kids, they'll probably get the foamy, but someone that's done say a few lessons with us and is like, what? Like proper board do I go get, we lean them into , a nice fish, big, long, or even a mini Mel.

Yep. Longboard. And say, start there and then start dropping down. And then you see them come back out and they're Yeah. They're on a high performance board. You're like, and he's like, oh yeah, but he said it's like six

seven. Like, okay. I don't think I can catch waves on that board yet today.

, I know what you mean.

Yeah.

But yeah, and especially with the level of their surfing.

Mm.

So you're matching a high performance board? Well, not, yeah. I don't know what they, like I said, I'm a little bit different in the way of the surf culture. I like to pick up a surfboard and feel it, like, and still looking at dimensions and what it's doing.

Mm. And the, the new ones, ah, what is it? Liters. Liters. Yeah.

Yeah.

They're like, oh, you know, but I'm this way and I've got this many leaders. And I'm like, well, where are the leaders? 'cause I

don't know how you're gonna paddle it.

Yep. Oh, I know what you mean. It's kind of a guide. I think Leaders is a guide for performance Short boards.

Yeah. Kind of. Oh, is it gonna help? Is it gonna float me? Kind of guide. Yeah. Yeah. That's about it. Yeah. It's irrelevant otherwise 'cause Yeah, and you're right. Most people, it's so funny, you still, you go to. TA and it's waist high and there's a bunch of kids on performance short boards like pumping and not catching waves, jumping up and down.

And then mind you, I was one of

those screaming, we've there wave. Just kidding. You come

back frustrated and you're like,

oh man, should I go give them this one? And then Yeah, get out there. We've all been there. Yeah. But yeah. Now a bit more foam is your friend. Oh

yeah, definitely. No, yeah. That's super fun.

Yeah. And those soft tops, I mean. They are fun, man. , and they're pretty, nowadays they're, they're made pretty well.

Yeah. And now it's got me when I'm on a shortboard thinking about , oh, I could do a turn there, but I'm just like gliding

along the way, past that section. I'm like,

oh, what did I just do?

Damn it. Okay. But just getting that, yeah. The line, eh, finding that perfect line and, yeah. Just feeling comfortable on the wave. Especially I love getting on bigger waves now, you know? 'cause it's been quite small lately. Today was a good little surf, but. You get on, say I'm on the foam here at knee height waves and you're just cruising.

Then you get onto a proper wave and see it stand up in front of you and you kind of just have that confidence of just standing there, just watching it. Oh, well I find now I'm just

Yeah, it's bigger, bigger, bigger. Ah, that's the one.

I might not even turn on it. Get to the little end section to a little.

Whack and then it's , that was sick. Yeah. That was done.

That's all it is. Surfing. Yeah. Yeah. That's all it needs to be. Yeah. It's just the, the pure joy of being on a wave. Right. That's enough. Yeah. That's it. Yeah, because that's the connection to the ocean. You're waiting for it. You're on a wave searching for it standing there.

Yeah. Sometimes it's all it needs to be. Yeah. That's that. What's, what does the future hold this summer for the surf school,

we're pretty busy, so we do school lessons as well. Yeah. The schools come out and we take them. , and then we had a real good last summer, it actually hasn't stopped, so I'm still doing lessons through the winter Oh wow.

With people. So it's been cool. Bit different. Because you have to explain that it's cold, real cold, and they get a shock. But everybody's been amped in it. Mm. , and the waves have been reasonably good. You know, we're having those offshore winds as well. . And yeah, tides are all matching up to the weekends, so it's been, yeah.

Real fun. That's good. Yeah. But the summer, hopefully we are pumping. Last summer was real good. There was some big days in there. , big days in the water.

Yeah.

Just staying salty really?

Yeah. So, um, what is the, is there a website for your, for the surf school?

Not at the moment. So it's just getting built, . But we run our, Hawke space surf school. Facebook page. Okay.

Facebook page. That's Facebook page. Yeah. That's what happens here in New Zealand, people don't have websites.

They just have a Facebook page. Yeah.

It's just kind of easier con to control at the moment. But yeah, the website's literally being made as we speak. Yep. Yeah. So that'll come out. Oh yeah. It'll be def , it's just done to Hawkes Bay Surf School when it's out.

Okay. Is it Hawkes Bay spelled out or hb

, Hawkes Bay spelled out.

Yep. But then our Instagram page is different because someone's got Hawke Space Surf School. Oh. So we, we just tried trying to get it back now. Oh yeah. But it might've been made up and now no one knows the password before me. Oh, okay. Yeah, yeah,

Okay. Well, if someone goes on Facebook and searches Hawks Bay Surf School, , you'll come up.

We'll be there. Yeah. And on Instagram it's hb HB Surf School. Yeah. And then what if people wanna follow your , surf everyday journey and stuff?

So that's on DJ Morris? Just on Instagram? Yeah. Or Facebook.

Yeah. Yeah. And that's D-E-J-A-Y?

D-E-J-A-Y.

Okay.

Yep. Morris, M-O-R-R-I-S.

Alright, cool man.

Yeah,

I'm sure there'll be people that want to check that out and, .

Come and get a lesson as well. Yeah. Try surfing if you're a local listener and haven't tried it and Yeah. Waimarama is the perfect beach for it. Yeah, it really is. All right, well thanks for joining us man. Awesome. Thank you've, appreciate it.

This has been awesome.

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Manage episode 477651039 series 124285
Content provided by Michael Frampton and Surf Mastery Podcast. All podcast content including episodes, graphics, and podcast descriptions are uploaded and provided directly by Michael Frampton and Surf Mastery Podcast or their podcast platform partner. If you believe someone is using your copyrighted work without your permission, you can follow the process outlined here https://ppacc.player.fm/legal.

What happens when a lifelong connection to the ocean turns into a mission to surf every single day through winter?

Whether you're a surfer, an ocean lover, or someone chasing consistency in your passions, this episode dives deep into the transformative power of daily dedication and the personal growth that comes from truly connecting with the ocean. If you've ever wondered how doing something every day could reshape your mindset, this is for you.

  • Hear how DJ Morris turned his childhood love of the ocean into a thriving surf school and daily surfing ritual.

  • Discover the surprising challenges and benefits of surfing every day through a New Zealand winter.

  • Learn the biggest beginner mistakes in surfing—and how to actually pick the right board for your skill level and local waves.

Tune in now to get inspired by DJ’s story of ocean connection, consistency, and the joy of sharing surfing with others—this episode might just change the way you approach your own passions.

Follow Dee Jay on Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/deejaymorris/

Hawkes Bay Surf School:

https://www.facebook.com/HawkesBaySurfSchool/

Song - Fernweh By Nachur

The Surf Mastery Podcast

For the passionate surfer—whether you're a weekend warrior, a surf dad, or an older surfer—this podcast is all about better surfing and deeper stoke. With expert surf coaching, surf training, and surfing tips, we’ll help you catch more waves, refine your paddling technique, and perfect your pop up on a surfboard. From surf workouts to handling wipeouts, chasing bigger waves, and mastering surf technique, we’re here to make sure you not only improve but truly enjoy surfing more—so you can get more out of every session and become a wiser surfer. Go from Beginner or intermediate Surfer to advanced

Transcript

When did you start surfing?

Started surfing probably around like properly, going out around the age of 10. So I actually started in surf lifesaving when I was seven. . And that got me not introduced to the ocean, but just got me confident in the waves and that, and then ended up. Yeah. Going from those long paddleboards into a short board that someone found on the beach, I think had been fixed up.

Yeah. It was an old season board and the nose had actually been snapped off and they had fixed it by just rounding the nose. And then gave you that a whack and Yeah. Fell in love with it. . Yeah, so that was about 10 years old. And then kept going.

And that was just out here.

That was at Waimarama

So I grew up at Waimarama, still living at Waimarama. Have moved around a bit. But yeah, back there Raising a family.

Do you remember like the first time you caught like a green wave? Yeah. Like really?

Yeah. I definitely remember that what actually wasn't even on that board that I was talking about.

It was on a, so my dad used to, , manage bars and run nightclubs and he had an a mate that had a lion red like longboard or mini mal. Mini mal . Yeah. And I remember him being like, oh, you gotta come out of the whitewash and come right out the back. And it wasn't, it mustn't have been that big. Felt big.

And then he pushed me in on it, and I just remember that feeling like, whoa, okay. Did it. And then actually paddled that board back out to him so I could do it again. Yeah. And what does surfing mean to you now? Surfing means everything to me like. At the moment it's, well, it's every day.

And then I, , part owner with Bronson Primer in the surf school, Hawke Space Surf School. So it's my income and it's my outlet and yeah, I'm focused in on it. Like super focused in on it at the moment. Yeah. Yeah. Just loving it. So every day at the moment. Tell us about that. Yeah, so surfing every day of winter, it wasn't even meant to be like this thing that it's kind of turned into.

It was just kind of a goal for myself to more connect with the ocean and, 'cause I'm doing the surf lessons I wanted to. Get out and get that connection properly in tune with it, and teaching people how to get in that connection. And I thought, well, through winter, I'm not the biggest fan of like cold weather in the winter here.

So I was like, I'll make a challenge for myself. But then I got real into like documenting it.

Mm-hmm.

And I put it out on social media and that was for like, , how can I explain it? To , make it accountable? Yeah. So if I did stop, people might reach out and be like, Hey, you didn't even make it. So that kept it going, but then it got easier and easier.

Like, well, it hasn't been hard yet. Because I love surfing and I love getting out there. There's been a couple of dicey days that were like, yeah, oh, , I'm not even gonna make it out where there was no back to get out to. So I just grabbed the foam top and jumped on a couple of little ones on the

inside.

Yeah.

But yeah, surfing every day of winter, it's been awesome. Yeah. Day 81 today,

day 81. So what, technically there's 90 days. Yeah. Yeah. Technically. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.

Going through it.

Yeah. Oh cool. And what is it getting colder and colder as you go? The water

it has, but then like, I dunno if I'm getting used to it more, but there's like colder places like Te Awanga for example.

That little outlet of the river that's real cold. Yep. And then I surfed a couple of times at Perfume Point off Napier.

Yep.

And yeah, that was freezing. But the wetsuits that we have now are mean. Yeah. Like can't beat them. Rocking those four threes booties. It's my second season ever in my life. In booties.

Yeah. First season was last year and I was like, didn't know if I was onto it. And just a different feel, eh? Like I know. I liked feeling the board. Yeah. And then, yeah. Put them on and Yeah. Yeah. You get to a certain age and your

feet just start hurting in the cold. Like it's, you can't not

wear

them.

Yeah.

That's definitely it. Yeah. Wait, you gone gloves? I didn't wanna put that one Gloves yet? Age no gloves yet? No. Gloves

and hoodies messed me up. Even I've, I've only just gotten used to the earplugs.

Hmm.

I don't hear yourself. Do you wear earplugs? Yeah, I wear

earplugs. If I don't, I'm so prone to ear infection, so I'm just used to them now.

Oh yeah. I wear the surfers one so you can still hear. Yeah. Yeah, I got those one. It's not the same. No. And it does take a bit of getting used to. Yeah. But, um, yeah,

and my hearing's bad, like already, so when I've got those in and people are talking to me, I'm like, yep. I'm like screaming at them.

Yeah. You could, the docks plugs, have you seen those?

You could try those. Yeah. They've, they've vented. So they don't, what I find is that it's not about stopping all of the water. It's about stopping, the pressure of the water going in. So there, there's these ones called vented docks, and they've got a little hole in them so you can actually hear pretty good.

Oh, true. And they let a little bit of water in, but there's no, like lots of, there's no pressure and no lots of water going in. Yeah. Those, those, uh, those do okay for me as well. But, um, yeah, no, earplugs are just a. A habit for me now. You get used to it Nice sort of thing. Yeah. But yeah,

slowly getting used to it, so, yep.

It's good. You get

to know the next age bracket is when you have to wear gloves when it's cold. Otherwise your hands just hurt. Stop moving.

Yeah. Luckily I've, I've surfed in like cold or times where I remember my hands freezing up. This winter has been like, everybody's saying that it's been like quite a wet, bad winter and I'm like, man, it's been mint for me.

I don't know. Yeah. Just in a different flow of things, I guess. Yeah.

So every, every day this winter. And has anyone joined you? Anyone jumped on the bandwagon

No, not really. No. Joining me to come every day, but heaps of people I've been surfing with. Yeah. Yeah. There's a couple of local guys out at WA that I kind of rope in when it gets to a decent size and I'm like, I don't really wanna surf by myself.

And I go jump around there and be like, you guys want to come out? They're like, yeah, as a kid. I'm like, yeah, it's real good. But yeah, it's been, it's been fun. Yeah, definitely been fun.

What do you think that consistency does for your surfing?

Oh man, I was talking to someone about this. I reckon it's got me into like this perfect flow state on, on surfing and the way that this has been moving, , going on tv, which is weird.

It's just hooked people into it. And then yeah. But with this surfing side, I've definitely seen a different style come outta myself because I've been changing boards up quite a lot at the moment.

Mm-hmm.

And. I've been surfing like to myself, like real good. I don't know. It's just, yeah, like I said, connecting.

Yeah, especially with the ocean and that and knowing where to be. Like I used to kind of rush surfs. Like it would be like on a timeline or I'd jump out just because there's a wave that I've seen. But now I can just walk down to the beach and be like, oh yeah, that looks like a good little spot. Sit there, watch it.

And then even days where it's like, okay, I gotta get this done 'cause I've got other stuff to do. I can now time it at like, oh yeah, I know this Tide, the wind's doing this. . So like that connection's really helped.

Mm. Yeah. 'cause you get in tune with the tide, the banks. Yeah. The wind. And you just, and I've been, and I

can see the banks like moving.

Yeah. It's crazy. Like different little peaks and that. . So it's been, yeah. Definitely helped my surfing.

Yeah. It's like a long-term relationship surfing.

Yeah, it is. Yeah. Finally got it back.

Yeah. But no, the, the longer you stick with it, the more effort you put in, the more it gives back, you know?

Yeah. That's it.

Yeah, it's been cool, like going to just beaches along, in Hawke's Bay and just yeah, finding that right wave and people even messaging me like, oh, there's a wave coming over here. We'll be surfing today. Yeah, I'm going out now. Okay. Let's go find it. Oh, cool. Yeah.

How would you describe your relationship to the ocean?

I've got a long relationship with the ocean. I love it. I. Can't be away from it too long, even if it is just a flat body of ocean. No swell I grew up around it obviously my whole life, but my dad and my granddad were fishermen. So I live off it as well, like during the, well now during the summer, love seafood, love fish, gather from it, and then now my business is in it.

So I spend a lot of time with it and then respect it as well. Like a lot. Mm-hmm. Because I know as my first job, I was a lifeguard, so I know what it can take from us and what it can give. So, you know, I love, love the ocean.

Was any gnarly experiences as a lifeguard?

Yeah, like we had a few, we never had.

Drownings, like we saw them drowning and then they drowned. It was just like searching for bodies that had been, and that's pretty gnarly. Like Mm, like you know that someone's out there, but it's been too long for them to be alive, so you know that they're probably gone. But then you got like the family there that are holding on hope and you kind of want to.

Give them hope. Mm. But you know, an hour out there in that condition. Yeah. Unless they're on the beach somewhere lost, they're definitely gone. And yeah, you grab your fins and your tube and you have to go out. Or like when I first started, 'cause I was the rookie, you jump in the water with your fins and tube.

And you're just floating and there's other guys in the boat and you're just sitting out like, I wanna find them, but I don't want to touch them.

Yeah. Oh, that's heavy.

Yeah. Yeah. But then beach crashes. Oh, well, yeah. People, uh, not crashes. People running into the water and there's like holes or a sandbar and just banging their knees out and like coming up and you're like, oh, yeah.

Yeah. How long did you do that for? So that was my first paid job. I did it, so I used to compete in it. So I did the boards and did the swimming. Then really got into the, , irb, so the racing boats, it was just a bit, more adrenaline really and real fun. Had a lot of mates that we all did it together. So I think I kind of left when I was around 18, 19.

So I did it for. Yeah. Probably a good 10 years. Mm-hmm. Mm.

And then surfing kind of took o, kept that relationship going with the ocean. Yeah, yeah,

yeah. I went straight into surfing. Mm-hmm. And just kept that up. Yeah. But then I kind of dropped out for a while as well. Some of us do. I went into the hospitality scene and that kind of took over majority of.

, well good. Seven to eight years.

Yeah.

And I was like on and off surfing, so I was , oh yeah. Go out for a wave. But kind of lost that, , fitness level. Mm-hmm. Was definitely it. Doing late nights and then Yeah. Everything that comes with

hospitality. Yeah.

So, yeah. Didn't lose touch with the ocean, but definitely lost like the flow of it.

Yeah. And just, yeah, it was kind of. If I was around it, I would surf. Yep. Not like hunting a swell or, yeah.

And now it's every day obviously. And you've also, , bought into the surf school. Yeah. What was that transition like going from surfing being a passion to then it being teaching it for a living?

Like did, help them out during summers. Yep. For probably two years. Oh yeah. Yeah. So I got a taste of it then. Mm-hmm. And it's, yeah, like it's pretty cool as you know, like teaching someone how to surf, just the energy and the water when people are like catching their own wave and being able to stand up and finally it's like one of those things, when you really wanna do something and they're the people that are coming to the beach and then they finally do it it's.

Like an energy wave just comes over you. Mm. And but it was a cool transition, it's been, yeah. Awesome.

Yep. What has it taught

you about your own surfing? , probably Oh, gaining that connection, seeing how stoked they are just to be in the water, catching anything.

And then you kind of pick up little tips.

Sometimes you're just in the flow of things and you're teaching them something and then you're like, oh man, I need to do that a little bit more. You know? It's, yeah, you're analyzing them and then once you go and do something and you're like, I've said to someone to do that and I'm not doing it myself.

Yeah. Like, just breathe, relax, you know, things, little things. Yeah.

Yeah, there, it's a reflection of what you need. You're always teaching yourself in some way.

Oh yeah, definitely.

Yeah. Yeah. And you mentioned boards, like what's,

what board are you riding at the moment? At the moment I'm riding this twin fin, , J Dub five eight.

Like it's real thick, real easy to paddle. It's been like a hand me down while I. It was made for one of our mates, Damien. Then Bronson got it and then was like, this is too short. I was like, I'll give it a go. It was like perfect for Te Awanga.

Yeah.

I imagine when you first started working with the surf school as an employee, and now fast forward, what, four years is it?

Yeah, been four years.

What's changed in the way you teach an absolute beginner?

, probably the confidence in teaching. Like when I first started it was kind of like, okay, I know how to surf and I know like what I'm doing in the ocean.

But then it was kind of relaying it to them in a way that they get it

because

I'm trying to teach, like you say, you teach yourself everything, but I'm saying it how I. Probably wanted to hear it where it needs to be, not, not that it's like dumbed down or anything, but put into terms where it's go slower.

Where I'd just be like, get up, get up, get up. You can do it. You know? Then, then it's like, actually I'm like shouting at them to stand up quicker, where it's like, okay, just breathe. Take your time. Get your balance first. Stand up.

Mm-hmm.

So I think that's , changed a bit. The way that I teach them is.

How it's kind of changed into it and then yeah , it's been been pretty cool showing them how to catch waves surf, obviously.

. What's the biggest, mistake that you see the beginner in that early learner make? ,

biggest mistake. Like when we are teaching them or, or even

when you just see them

Oh.

Like sometimes rushing and then kind of confidence level to what the, their level actually is and probably boards. . Like we were talking about Yeah. The wrong

board.

Oh, yeah. But. You just need to pick the right, well, yeah, pick the right board is probably the biggest one. I'm trying to think , actually last time I was seeing somebody learning Yeah.

Like they go hard out and get, you know, performance boards from the shops that are selling them here. Like, I don't, you go into, I reckon surf shops would sell a whole lot more boards if it was for the waves that we've got here.

Yep. I agree this, but the industry just gives them the latest.

Yeah. Whatever John John's writing, the industry pumps to them and yeah, someone comes in, I need a board, and they're like.

And I was a sucker for that when I was younger. Yeah. We all, yeah. I was like, go in and be like, oh, that one. Then I'd paddle it out. But it was a lot, um, lighter on the feet. But yeah, for the waves that we get here, like even when we are sending, , like our, our, um, students to go find a board and you know, they've.

Not just mastered the foamy, but you can tell that they don't want a foamy. Yeah, we try push it always. Yeah. Especially kids, like kids, they'll probably get the foamy, but someone that's done say a few lessons with us and is like, what? Like proper board do I go get, we lean them into , a nice fish, big, long, or even a mini Mel.

Yep. Longboard. And say, start there and then start dropping down. And then you see them come back out and they're Yeah. They're on a high performance board. You're like, and he's like, oh yeah, but he said it's like six

seven. Like, okay. I don't think I can catch waves on that board yet today.

, I know what you mean.

Yeah.

But yeah, and especially with the level of their surfing.

Mm.

So you're matching a high performance board? Well, not, yeah. I don't know what they, like I said, I'm a little bit different in the way of the surf culture. I like to pick up a surfboard and feel it, like, and still looking at dimensions and what it's doing.

Mm. And the, the new ones, ah, what is it? Liters. Liters. Yeah.

Yeah.

They're like, oh, you know, but I'm this way and I've got this many leaders. And I'm like, well, where are the leaders? 'cause I

don't know how you're gonna paddle it.

Yep. Oh, I know what you mean. It's kind of a guide. I think Leaders is a guide for performance Short boards.

Yeah. Kind of. Oh, is it gonna help? Is it gonna float me? Kind of guide. Yeah. Yeah. That's about it. Yeah. It's irrelevant otherwise 'cause Yeah, and you're right. Most people, it's so funny, you still, you go to. TA and it's waist high and there's a bunch of kids on performance short boards like pumping and not catching waves, jumping up and down.

And then mind you, I was one of

those screaming, we've there wave. Just kidding. You come

back frustrated and you're like,

oh man, should I go give them this one? And then Yeah, get out there. We've all been there. Yeah. But yeah. Now a bit more foam is your friend. Oh

yeah, definitely. No, yeah. That's super fun.

Yeah. And those soft tops, I mean. They are fun, man. , and they're pretty, nowadays they're, they're made pretty well.

Yeah. And now it's got me when I'm on a shortboard thinking about , oh, I could do a turn there, but I'm just like gliding

along the way, past that section. I'm like,

oh, what did I just do?

Damn it. Okay. But just getting that, yeah. The line, eh, finding that perfect line and, yeah. Just feeling comfortable on the wave. Especially I love getting on bigger waves now, you know? 'cause it's been quite small lately. Today was a good little surf, but. You get on, say I'm on the foam here at knee height waves and you're just cruising.

Then you get onto a proper wave and see it stand up in front of you and you kind of just have that confidence of just standing there, just watching it. Oh, well I find now I'm just

Yeah, it's bigger, bigger, bigger. Ah, that's the one.

I might not even turn on it. Get to the little end section to a little.

Whack and then it's , that was sick. Yeah. That was done.

That's all it is. Surfing. Yeah. Yeah. That's all it needs to be. Yeah. It's just the, the pure joy of being on a wave. Right. That's enough. Yeah. That's it. Yeah, because that's the connection to the ocean. You're waiting for it. You're on a wave searching for it standing there.

Yeah. Sometimes it's all it needs to be. Yeah. That's that. What's, what does the future hold this summer for the surf school,

we're pretty busy, so we do school lessons as well. Yeah. The schools come out and we take them. , and then we had a real good last summer, it actually hasn't stopped, so I'm still doing lessons through the winter Oh wow.

With people. So it's been cool. Bit different. Because you have to explain that it's cold, real cold, and they get a shock. But everybody's been amped in it. Mm. , and the waves have been reasonably good. You know, we're having those offshore winds as well. . And yeah, tides are all matching up to the weekends, so it's been, yeah.

Real fun. That's good. Yeah. But the summer, hopefully we are pumping. Last summer was real good. There was some big days in there. , big days in the water.

Yeah.

Just staying salty really?

Yeah. So, um, what is the, is there a website for your, for the surf school?

Not at the moment. So it's just getting built, . But we run our, Hawke space surf school. Facebook page. Okay.

Facebook page. That's Facebook page. Yeah. That's what happens here in New Zealand, people don't have websites.

They just have a Facebook page. Yeah.

It's just kind of easier con to control at the moment. But yeah, the website's literally being made as we speak. Yep. Yeah. So that'll come out. Oh yeah. It'll be def , it's just done to Hawkes Bay Surf School when it's out.

Okay. Is it Hawkes Bay spelled out or hb

, Hawkes Bay spelled out.

Yep. But then our Instagram page is different because someone's got Hawke Space Surf School. Oh. So we, we just tried trying to get it back now. Oh yeah. But it might've been made up and now no one knows the password before me. Oh, okay. Yeah, yeah,

Okay. Well, if someone goes on Facebook and searches Hawks Bay Surf School, , you'll come up.

We'll be there. Yeah. And on Instagram it's hb HB Surf School. Yeah. And then what if people wanna follow your , surf everyday journey and stuff?

So that's on DJ Morris? Just on Instagram? Yeah. Or Facebook.

Yeah. Yeah. And that's D-E-J-A-Y?

D-E-J-A-Y.

Okay.

Yep. Morris, M-O-R-R-I-S.

Alright, cool man.

Yeah,

I'm sure there'll be people that want to check that out and, .

Come and get a lesson as well. Yeah. Try surfing if you're a local listener and haven't tried it and Yeah. Waimarama is the perfect beach for it. Yeah, it really is. All right, well thanks for joining us man. Awesome. Thank you've, appreciate it.

This has been awesome.

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