E97. SEAMLESS. with Oscar Winning Costume Designer, Paul Tazewell

The Institute of Black Imagination.

Episode Summary:

In this monumental 97th episode—our first-ever live recording—we welcome legendary costume designer and visual storyteller Paul Tazewell, just one week after his historic win as the first Black man to receive the Academy Award for Best Costume Design for Wicked. Set against the vibrant backdrop of Space 001, the Institute’s newly opened physical space, Paul and host Dario Calmese delve into a deeply moving, expansive conversation about storytelling through clothing, the power of design, Black imagination, and the long road to recognition.

From his early days sewing dashikis and puppets in Akron, Ohio, to crafting iconic looks for Hamilton, The Wiz Live!, Harriet, West Side Story, and now Wicked, Paul shares the emotional, intellectual, and spiritual layers that shape his work. This episode is a masterclass in creative process, artistic evolution, and how style becomes a vessel for history, identity, and transformation.

What We Explore:

• A Historic Win: Paul reflects on becoming the first Black man to win an Oscar for costume design.
• Roots & Influence: His upbringing in Akron and support from his two moms shaped his creative path.
• Finding His Lane: He learned to trust design as his true calling while navigating multiple talents.
• Design as Story: Paul reveals how costumes—like those in Wicked—carry emotion, science, and symbolism.
• Legacy & Access: He honors Black creative lineage and shares his vision for mentoring future storytellers.

Quotables:

“Clothing is never just about what you wear. It’s about the story you tell.”

— Paul Tazewell

“Being visible, taking up space, allows you access to investigate what’s next.

— Paul Tazewell

“Beauty is the antidote to the ugliness in the world.”— Paul Tazewell

About the Guest:

Paul Tazewell is a Tony, Emmy, BAFTA, and now Academy Award-winning costume designer whose breathtaking work has helped shape the visual identity of contemporary theater and film. From Hamilton to Wicked, his designs transcend aesthetics—they are blueprints for character, history, and emotion.

Follow Paul on Instagram: @paultazewell

Resources & Mentions:

• Space 001 – A concept store, research lab, and living archive in the Oculus, NYC
• Geoffrey Holder – Legendary Black artist and costume designer for The Wiz
• Wicked (Film) – Now featuring Oscar-winning costume design
• North Carolina School of the Arts, NYU, and Pratt Institute – Key touchstones in Paul’s training
• Mellon Foundation – Supporting imagination and justice through the arts

Soundtrack: Inspired by Paul Tazewell’s Journey & Genius

1. "Home" – Stephanie Mills (from The Wiz) - A soulful ode to identity, memory, and belonging—an emotional anchor for Paul’s early influence and connection to The Wiz.
2. "Defying Gravity" – Cynthia Erivo (from Wicked) - A triumphant anthem of transformation, resistance, and rising above—mirroring Paul’s groundbreaking win and Elphaba’s journey.
3. "Back to Life" – Soul II Soul - An Afro-futurist groove echoing Paul’s ability to breathe story into garments—rooted in culture, yet futuristic.
4. "Optimistic" – Sounds of Blackness - A call to persevere, perfect for honoring Paul’s long and winding path through doubt, brilliance, and breakthrough.
5. "Mood Indigo" – Nina Simone - A textured, moody classic that reflects the complexity and emotion Paul brings to characters through costume and color.

Recommended Reading List: For Further Exploration

1. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History by James Laver - A beautifully illustrated guide tracing the evolution of dress—perfect for those curious about how fashion and costume shape culture.
2. Black Futures by Kimberly Drew & Jenna Wortham - A multi-dimensional exploration of Black creativity, possibility, and presence—mirroring the ethos of this episode and the IBI. (check out our episode with Kimberly Drew)
3. Mycelium Running: How Mushrooms Can Help Save the World by Paul Stamets - Dive deeper into the mycelium metaphor Paul used for Elphaba’s costume—a poetic and scientific lens on connection and transformation.

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Production Credits:

• Host & Creator: Dario Calmese
• Producer: KT Thompson
• Executive Producer: Chrystal Genesis
• Engineering & Original Music: Adam Radice
• Presented by: The Institute of Black Imagination, with support from The Mellon Foundation

Until next time, stay curious and keep dreaming.