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EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)
Manage episode 402334332 series 3545012
Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:00) Guest Introduction
(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories
(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides
(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods
(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing
(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards
(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach
(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching
(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example
(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing
(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling
(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders
(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?
(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill
(40:45) Wrap Up
383 episodes
Manage episode 402334332 series 3545012
Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.
____________________
EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:00) Guest Introduction
(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories
(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides
(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods
(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing
(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards
(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach
(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching
(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example
(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing
(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling
(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders
(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?
(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill
(40:45) Wrap Up
383 episodes
All episodes
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1 TAPED TIPS | How Good Tactics Can Be Bad For Your Climbing 8:15

1 TAPED TIPS | Boulder Harder With This Simple Stability Technique 17:35

1 TAPED TIPS | The Technique Error Holding Sport Climbers Back: Embracing Instability 16:53

1 TAPED TIPS | The Two Biggest Barriers to Sending Hard Climbs 8:19

1 TAPED TIPS | There Are 3 Types of Climber. This One Is ALWAYS Better. 15:32

1 BOARD MEETINGS | How To Use Outdoor Sport Climbing As Training 52:31

1 TAPED TIPS | How To Toe Hook: The Most Misunderstood Climbing Technique 17:36

1 TAPED TIPS | The Most Important Skill for Climbing 5.13 11:17

1 BOARD MEETINGS | Better Working Goes: How To Send Faster 1:08:17

1 TAPED TIPS | Triple Your Sends Using If-Then Intentions 10:06

1 BOARD MEETINGS | Principle vs. Prescription in Climbing Training 40:39

1 BOARD MEETINGS | Should Climbers Train Where They Are or Where They Want To Be? 29:45

1 BOARD MEETINGS | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize? 53:40

1 BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Building Grade Pyramids vs. Towers 49:22

1 BOARD MEETINGS | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing 42:03

1 Jibé Tribout and Arnould T'Kint | The Birth of Sport Climbing as We Know It 1:08:19

1 Climbing 100 5.13's, My New Book, and Goals About Goals 13:11

1 EXPERT | Joy Black on Training for Pregnant Climbers, Trimester by Trimester 2:07:35

1 EVERY BODY CLIMBS | A Blind Trio featuring Justin Salas, Seneida Biendarra, and Chaz Misuraca 1:32:12

1 BUILDER | Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg Are Pushing Their Sport Climbing Limits 1:28:07

1 MOVIE NIGHT | Devotion: Jakob Schubert's Journey to the Top 33:59

1 MOVIE NIGHT | Passion (featuring Jonathan Siegrist) 45:14

1 EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Melissa Ruiz on Training with a Neurological Disorder 49:53

1 TAPED TIPS | The Most Underrated Climbing Movement Skill 15:53

1 MOVIE NIGHT | Takeaways from In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering 27:56

1 MOVIE NIGHT | Takeaways from Scarpa Presents: Soudain Seul 9a/V17 x Simon Lorenzi 41:05

1 Ravioli Biceps and Nate Drolet | The Parallels Between Climbing and Video Games 2:06:23

1 A Better Framework for Assessing and Improving Climbing Movement and Technique 23:48

1 Allyson Gunsallus | The Challenges of Parenting as a Climber 55:50

1 EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Fallon Rowe on Learning Mental Gymnastics So Our Bodies Can Climb 56:16

1 BOARD MEETINGS | Our Favorite Effective Finger Strength Protocols 1:11:23

1 FOCUS Q&A 2: Movement Solutions, Finding Better Beta, and Toe Hooks vs. Heel Hooks 56:24


1 FOCUS Q&A 1: Climbing Movement Principles, Skill vs. Strength, and How to Evaluate 39:45

1 TAPED TIPS | How To Climb Taller AND Smaller 13:48

1 REWIND | Can We Accurately Measure the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers? 45:54

1 EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Ben Mayforth on Discipline, Paraclimbing World Championships, and Letting Go 32:50

1 Nate Drolet | A Consultation with The Struggle Climbing Show 1:15:24

1 EXPERT | Udo Neumann on Movement, Learning, and How to Coach Climbing 1:45:20

1 TAPED TIPS | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves 16:29

1 (BONUS) EXPERT | Will Anglin on Climbing All The Things, the Intersection of Strength and Movement, and the Ultimate Tool 37:39

1 BUILDER | Lauren Abernathy is Building Better Climbing Movement Skills with In-Person Sessions 1:05:14

1 TAPED TIPS | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers are Missing 10:18

1 EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching 1:36:22

1 BOARD MEETINGS | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience? 1:06:08
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