#140 Austin Hoyt — Breaking Beta On Lucid Dreaming, FA’ing NE’s First V15, “NE Is The New SE”, and Why Everyone From There Has Strong Fingers

The Testpiece Podcast

Austin Hoyt is one of the young guns out of the North East crew that has been absolutely crushing lately.

Austin recently FA’d the North East’s first V15, Big Bad Wolf, as well as sent Lucid Dreaming [V15+] using a new ‘double-clutch’ beta for the iconic crux move.

Austin shares a ton about what makes the North East special and why it’s been producing some of the strongest climbers, such as his close friends Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Adam Shahar who have also recently been on the podcast.

SHOW NOTES:

• Austin Hoyt’s Instagram
• Austin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube Channel
• Issac Leff’s YouTube Channel
• Beta labs (Austin’s Company)
• Mad Rock
• Decoy Holds
• Mimic Holds
• Testpiece Podcasts Mentioned:
  • Noah and Benn Wheeler
  • Adam Shahar
  • Ross Fulkerson

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Chapters

1. Intro (00:00:00)

2. Close On The Process [V16] (00:06:06)

3. Lucid Dreaming [V15+] Double Clutch (00:09:40)

4. The North East Climbing Scene (00:13:55)

5. Why Do NE Climbers Have Such Strong Fingers? (00:33:18)

6. “NE Vision” (00:37:34)

7. FA Of NE’s First V15, ‘Big Bad Wolf’ (00:50:26)

8. NE’s V17 Project (01:02:46)

9. V15 In Bishop Vs The NE (01:06:15)

10. Austin’s Journey To Sending Lucid Dreaming [V15+] (01:10:37)

11. How Do You Go From Good To Great? (01:44:21)