#151 Shauna Coxsey — The One Thing You Can’t Train, Olympics Are Harder Than Parenting, and The Difference Between Motivation and Commitment

The Testpiece Podcast

Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she’s a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14’s this past year.

Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows exactly what makes her so incredible.

THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”

SHOW NOTES:

• Shauna Coxsey Instagram
• Shauna Sending Mito (8B+/V14)
• Foxy Climbing
• Mad Rock

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Chapters

1. Intro (00:00:00)

2. Performing Is The Easy Part (00:07:56)

3. The One Thing You Can’t Train (00:10:52)

4. Shauna’s Favorite Thing To Watch In Comp Climbing (00:19:28)

5. Training For The Olympics Is Harder Than Being A Parent (00:31:02)

6. Motivation Vs Commitment (00:38:11)

7. Having A Baseline From Years Hard Training (00:51:17)

8. The State Of Comp Climbing Today (00:54:01)

9. Inspiration Vs Aspiration (01:03:50)

10. Dealing With Injuries (01:07:20)

11. Handling Becoming A Mom As An Athlete (01:19:16)

12. Shauna’s Two New Companies (01:30:46)

13. How Do You Go From Good To Great? (01:39:43)