In Their Words: Viola Buitoni on the Timeless Taste of Bottarga

Salt & Spine

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Enjoy this excerpt as Viola Buitoni reads from Italy by Ingredient.

As Viola recounts, one vivid memory stands out from her childhood. It was a late September day when her mother took her to a fishmonger in Orbitel, nestled by the southern Tuscan coast. The experience, accentuated by the salty breeze of the lagoon and the familial presence, introduced her to bottarga—a cured fish roe delicacy—that has lingered in her kitchen and heart for fifty years.

Viola fondly recalls stepping into the courtyard, her mother’s gentle guidance leading her to bottarga, an ingredient as much about tradition as it is about taste. She vividly describes their ritual of shaving it over buttered toast with lemon upon returning home, which later graced their spaghetti—a testament to Bottarga’s sea-like essence that mirrors the salt, wind, and shells.

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