Everyone has a dream. But sometimes there’s a gap between where we are and where we want to be. True, there are some people who can bridge that gap easily, on their own, but all of us need a little help at some point. A little boost. An accountability partner. A Snooze Squad. In each episode, the Snooze Squad will strategize an action plan for people to face their fears. Guests will transform their own perception of their potential and walk away a few inches closer to who they want to become ...
…
continue reading
Content provided by Steven Dimmitt. All podcast content including episodes, graphics, and podcast descriptions are uploaded and provided directly by Steven Dimmitt or their podcast platform partner. If you believe someone is using your copyrighted work without your permission, you can follow the process outlined here https://ppacc.player.fm/legal.
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EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter
Manage episode 443925117 series 2638497
Content provided by Steven Dimmitt. All podcast content including episodes, graphics, and podcast descriptions are uploaded and provided directly by Steven Dimmitt or their podcast platform partner. If you believe someone is using your copyrighted work without your permission, you can follow the process outlined here https://ppacc.player.fm/legal.
Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for young routesetters, and much more.
Become a Patron:
Ocelot Grips:
Use code “The Nugget loves cats” to save 35% off MSRP.
Fill out their Google form and enter to win one $500 hold credit.
Crimpd:
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Green Chef:
Use code "nugget50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/molly-beard
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:34) – The Murder Room
(00:06:01) – How I met Molly 15 years ago
(00:10:02) – Molly’s background
(00:12:50) – Climbing gyms in the 90s
(00:14:45) – The language of movement
(00:20:54) – Becoming the puppet master
(00:29:14) – Routesetting in the 90s
(00:32:35) – Getting paid to set routes
(00:34:36) – The power of climbing
(00:35:49) – Getting her L5
(00:44:53) – Facing misogyny in routesetting
(00:51:21) – The progression of routesetting
(00:57:57) – Staying up to speed with the trends
(01:00:54) – Coordination
(01:02:34) – Specializing in lead
(01:04:55) – Youth comps & the next generation
(01:06:50) – Longevity as a routesetter
(01:12:10) – A tide shift
(01:18:29) – Molly’s current job & recent injuries
(01:22:08) – An evolving relationship with climbing
(01:24:49) – Finding separation
(01:35:20) – Body dollars & Jiu-Jitsu
(01:39:10) – Moving to Hood River
(01:43:06) – Advice for young routesetters
(01:47:25) – Where is climbing going?
(01:52:14) – Splitting the field
(01:56:17) – “Be less judgemental.”
(02:01:52) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
355 episodes
Share
Manage episode 443925117 series 2638497
Content provided by Steven Dimmitt. All podcast content including episodes, graphics, and podcast descriptions are uploaded and provided directly by Steven Dimmitt or their podcast platform partner. If you believe someone is using your copyrighted work without your permission, you can follow the process outlined here https://ppacc.player.fm/legal.
Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for young routesetters, and much more.
Become a Patron:
Ocelot Grips:
Use code “The Nugget loves cats” to save 35% off MSRP.
Fill out their Google form and enter to win one $500 hold credit.
Crimpd:
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Green Chef:
Use code "nugget50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/molly-beard
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:34) – The Murder Room
(00:06:01) – How I met Molly 15 years ago
(00:10:02) – Molly’s background
(00:12:50) – Climbing gyms in the 90s
(00:14:45) – The language of movement
(00:20:54) – Becoming the puppet master
(00:29:14) – Routesetting in the 90s
(00:32:35) – Getting paid to set routes
(00:34:36) – The power of climbing
(00:35:49) – Getting her L5
(00:44:53) – Facing misogyny in routesetting
(00:51:21) – The progression of routesetting
(00:57:57) – Staying up to speed with the trends
(01:00:54) – Coordination
(01:02:34) – Specializing in lead
(01:04:55) – Youth comps & the next generation
(01:06:50) – Longevity as a routesetter
(01:12:10) – A tide shift
(01:18:29) – Molly’s current job & recent injuries
(01:22:08) – An evolving relationship with climbing
(01:24:49) – Finding separation
(01:35:20) – Body dollars & Jiu-Jitsu
(01:39:10) – Moving to Hood River
(01:43:06) – Advice for young routesetters
(01:47:25) – Where is climbing going?
(01:52:14) – Splitting the field
(01:56:17) – “Be less judgemental.”
(02:01:52) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
355 episodes
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Similar to The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Everyone has a dream. But sometimes there’s a gap between where we are and where we want to be. True, there are some people who can bridge that gap easily, on their own, but all of us need a little help at some point. A little boost. An accountability partner. A Snooze Squad. In each episode, the Snooze Squad will strategize an action plan for people to face their fears. Guests will transform their own perception of their potential and walk away a few inches closer to who they want to become ...
…
continue reading
We are often distracted in life and never really dive deep into the real foundation of self improvement, goal achieving, and wellbeing. - Join our team of experts every week as we discuss the real facets of manhood. Topics like: How to develop more self esteem, self love, deeper relationships. How to improve our wellbeing, mental toughness, resilience, and productivity. How to develop critical skills, become better leaders, expand our careers/business, create financial security and contribut ...
…
continue reading
Are you looking for more happiness, success and vitality in your life? Get inspired each week with wellness and performance expert, Integrative Medicine Fellow, author & keynote speaker, Kristel Bauer. Live Greatly shares empowering conversations and insights about happiness, wellness & success to support your personal and professional development. Kristel talks with top experts, leaders and inspiring individuals to help you embrace a growth mindset and excel in your work/life. Kristel then ...
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continue reading
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continue reading
Welcome to Almost 30 - a supportive space to fuel your conscious evolution. Join us, LA-based best friends Krista Williams and Lindsey Simcik, for heart-centered, hilarious conversations and real, raw, impactful interviews with brilliant guests. We dive deep into topics like modern spirituality to health and wellness, aliens to entrepreneurship, social justice, and self development. With every episode, our mission is to empower you, expand what you think is possible and, make you laugh - a l ...
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Gretchen Rubin is HAPPIER, and she wants you to be happier too. The #1 bestselling author of The Happiness Project and Better Than Before gets more personal than ever as she brings her practical, manageable advice about happiness and good habits to this lively, thought-provoking podcast. Gretchen’s cohost and guinea pig is her younger sister, Elizabeth Craft, a TV writer and producer living in Los Angeles, who (lovingly) refers to Gretchen as her happiness bully. Sales and Distribution by Le ...
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continue reading
Welcome to The Warrior Mind Podcast — your ultimate destination for unlocking mental strength, cultivating an unshakable warrior mindset, and living with purpose. Dive deep into the principles of grit, resilience, and relentless self-improvement as we explore what it means to push past limits and embrace challenges.
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continue reading
Do your eyes glaze over when looking at a long list of annual health insurance enrollment options – or maybe while you’re trying to calculate how much you owe the IRS? You might be wondering the same thing we are: Where’s the guidebook for all of this grown-up stuff? Whether opening a bank account, refinancing student loans, or purchasing car insurance (...um, can we just roll the dice without it?), we’re just as confused as you are. Enter: “Grown-Up Stuff: How to Adult” a podcast dedicated ...
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Growing mentally stronger will change your life and therapist Amy Morin wants to show you how to make it happen. Amy Morin is a psychotherapist and the author of the 13 Things Mentally Strong People Don’t Do series, which have been translated into more than 45 languages and sold over a million copies. Her TEDx talk, The Secret of Becoming Mentally Strong,” is one of the most viewed talks of all time with over 24 million views. She’s a speaker and corporate trainer who teaches companies like ...
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