#142 Tyler Nelson & Rob Hunter — Doubling Finger Strength As A 48 Year Old V14 Climber, “Squeezing The Lemon”, Focusing On Muscular Gains Over Connective Tissue, and Intention Instead Of Numbers

The Testpiece Podcast

Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance.

This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That’s a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V14 climber, 48 years old, and has 30+ years of hard training already under his belt. Rob is no stranger to training either as he recently retired as the Head Coach of the Irish Climbing Team, and has a degree in Sport Therapy.

Tune in to hear more about the subtle change in finger training the was so successful for Rob. How “squeezing the lemon” can help with finger strength gains while simultaneously reducing injury risk and total fatigue. Learn about why we should focus on muscular adaptations during our training rather than connective tissue ones. And how intention is the key to strength gains instead of absolute numbers.

Look below at the Show Notes for videos that help demonstrate the training talked about in the episode.

SHOW NOTES:

• Rob Hunter’s Instagram
• Tyler Nelson’s Instagram
• Rob’s Business, My Therapy Physio
• Tyler’s Company, Camp 4 Human Performance
• Tyler’s YouTube Channel
• Tyler’s Demonstration Of Overcoming Isometrics
• Squeezing The Lemon / Orange Demonstration
• Tyler’s Demonstration Of “Finger Curling”
• Tyler’s Previous Testpiece Episode, #114

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Chapters

1. Intro (00:00:00)

2. How This Episode Came To Be (00:03:50)

3. Deciding The Training For Rob (00:14:07)

4. Overcoming Isometrics Vs Yielding Isometrics (00:20:31)

5. Why Overcoming Isometrics For Rob? (00:23:32)

6. Rob’s Results In Numbers (00:28:21)

7. How Rob Those Increases Impacted Rob’s Climbing (00:37:52)

8. Why ‘Just Climbing’ Didn’t Work For Rob (00:40:57)

9. “Squeezing The Lemon” As An Analogy (00:49:20)

10. Why Training Fingers Requires A Different Intention Than Climbing (00:54:11)

11. The Nitty Gritty Of Rob’s Protocol (00:54:51)

12. Who Is This Type Of Training For? (01:02:24)

13. Using Consistent Training To Determine Systemic Fatigue (01:14:06)

14. Should We Ever Focus On Yielding Isometrics? (01:21:52)

15. Rob’s Wall Crawling Drill Details (01:25:08)

16. Tyler, How Do You Go From Good To Great? (01:40:26)

17. Rob, How Do You Go From Good To Great? (01:41:57)