#143 Simon Lorenzi — The Surprising Reason V18 Is So Difficult, Benchmark V16 And V17 Boulders, 9c Vs 9A, ‘Perfect’ Isn’t Perfect, and Why Climbing Is The Best Sport Ever

The Testpiece Podcast

Simon Lorenzi has done more V17’s on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there’s a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt!

That’s because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17’s there.

This was an INCREDIBLE conversation with one of the best boulderers in the world. This is a must listen!

If you loved Simon as much as we do, we’ve got great news… you can get trained by him through his company Bushido Climbing!

SHOW NOTES:

• Bushido Climbing
• Simon Lorenzi’s Instagram

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Chapters

1. Intro (00:00:00)

2. What He Thinks Of LV and RR and Why He’s Here (00:03:00)

3. RR Sandstone Vs Font Sandstone (00:06:54)

4. Climbing Is The Best Sport In The World (00:13:00)

5. Pressure And Why ‘Perfect’ Isn’t Perfect (00:18:56)

6. RR V17’s Vs The Other Ones In The World (00:24:47)

7. V16 Vs V17 (00:35:40)

8. Benchmark V16 And V17 (00:38:08)

9. The Difficulties Of V18 (00:43:39)

10. No Cheating, Only Lying (Soudain Seul, V17) (00:48:36)

11. What It Takes To Send V18? (00:52:52)

12. Long Term Projecting Ups And Downs (00:57:43)

13. Comps Vs Projecting (01:05:43)

14. Likes And Dislikes In Comp Climbing (01:09:48)

15. Why He Focuses On Bouldering Instead Of Lead (01:23:49)

16. Is 9c/15d Harder Than 9A/V17? (01:28:30)

17. How Do You Go From Good To Great? (01:34:35)