#153 Tyler Thompson — This Is The Most Fun You Can Have Climbing, Why 14a In America Is Like 9a In Europe, and How Sport Climbing Rewards Time On Rock More Than Bouldering

The Testpiece Podcast

Tyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends.

Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn’t grown as quickly as bouldering.

And we get to hear some of his hard earned wisdom about how to become and better climber and why there are no shortcuts to time on the rock.

SHOW NOTES:

• Tyler’s Instagram
• Tyler’s YouTube Channel
• Full Metal Brisket (15a)

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Chapters

1. Intro (00:00:00)

2. Were You A Comp Kid? (00:03:50)

3. “Finding Climbing” (00:11:00)

4. Why Hasn’t Sport Climbing Grown As Much As Bouldering? (00:14:53)

5. The Best First Person Experience In Climbing (00:19:37)

6. The Mistake Board Lords Make While Sport Climbing (00:24:47)

7. Finding Efficiencies On Routes (00:28:00)

8. Tactics For Resting On Routes (00:31:54)

9. Climbing IQ Is The Wrong Term (00:38:31)

10. Is Technical Kneebarring Required To Be A Top Sport Climber? (00:42:08)

11. Onsighting Is The Best ‘Exam’ In Climbing (00:49:52)

12. Dealing With Intimidating Routes (00:57:16)

13. Sending Full Metal Brisket, 15a (01:01:06)

14. Sending Death Of Villains, 15a (01:11:49)

15. Sport Climbing Scene In America Vs Europe (01:19:02)

16. Is It Easier To Climb Your First V10 Or 13b? (01:24:41)

17. How Do You Go From Good To Great? (01:29:31)