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#154 Kevin Thibault — A Lifetime In Fontainebleau, Circuits / Pof / Chipping / Nazi’s, Good vs Great Climbers In Font, and Does Climbing Need Weightclasses?
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Kevin Thibault is a fixture in the Fontainebleau scene. He grew up there, started climbing there, and continues to climb there for almost 40 years now!
It runs in the family too, his Dad climbed there and was the one who brushed the legendary ‘Karma’ which was sent by Fred Nicole and became one of the most famous boulder problems in the world.
Hear from Kevin all about Fontainebleau, what makes it special, and what it has taught him in his journey deep into the 8th grade.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
156 episodes
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Manage episode 478213600 series 3485503
Content provided by Testpiece. All podcast content including episodes, graphics, and podcast descriptions are uploaded and provided directly by Testpiece or their podcast platform partner. If you believe someone is using your copyrighted work without your permission, you can follow the process outlined here https://ppacc.player.fm/legal.
Kevin Thibault is a fixture in the Fontainebleau scene. He grew up there, started climbing there, and continues to climb there for almost 40 years now!
It runs in the family too, his Dad climbed there and was the one who brushed the legendary ‘Karma’ which was sent by Fred Nicole and became one of the most famous boulder problems in the world.
Hear from Kevin all about Fontainebleau, what makes it special, and what it has taught him in his journey deep into the 8th grade.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
156 episodes
All episodes
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1 #156 Tim, My Dude — When Olympians Go Rock Climbing, The Best Red Rocks Season Ever, Are Soft Shoes Better Than Stiff Ones, and How To Have A Successful Trip 2:10:10
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Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedTim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang ] is back on the pod for another fun episode. Tim and Josh talk about the latest big news stories in climbing and then get into their latest climbing experience. For Tim that means sending Trieste, an iconic Red Rocks V14, while being a ‘weekend warrior’. For Josh that means his recent big trip to the historic bouldering Mecca that is Fontainebleau. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock ! Mad Rock’s motto is “ CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.” SHOW NOTES: Tim Kang’s Instagram Focus: A Bishop Highball Project with Tim Kang Hamish McArthur Testpiece Episode Mad Rock Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
1 #155 [BONUS] Kevin Thibault — All About Karma, The State Of Development In Font, and 9A Slabs By Kids?! 47:02
47:02 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked47:02
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedThis is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #154 was finished. Kevin Thibault and Josh go deep on the legendary ‘Karma’, the current development happening in Font, skin management, and the issues of weight vs performance. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
1 #154 Kevin Thibault — A Lifetime In Fontainebleau, Circuits / Pof / Chipping / Nazi’s, Good vs Great Climbers In Font, and Does Climbing Need Weightclasses? 2:03:51
2:03:51 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked2:03:51
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedKevin Thibault is a fixture in the Fontainebleau scene. He grew up there, started climbing there, and continues to climb there for almost 40 years now! It runs in the family too, his Dad climbed there and was the one who brushed the legendary ‘Karma’ which was sent by Fred Nicole and became one of the most famous boulder problems in the world. Hear from Kevin all about Fontainebleau, what makes it special, and what it has taught him in his journey deep into the 8th grade. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
1 #153 Tyler Thompson — This Is The Most Fun You Can Have Climbing, Why 14a In America Is Like 9a In Europe, and How Sport Climbing Rewards Time On Rock More Than Bouldering 1:37:02
1:37:02 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked1:37:02
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedTyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends. Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn’t grown as quickly as bouldering. And we get to hear some of his hard earned wisdom about how to become and better climber and why there are no shortcuts to time on the rock. SHOW NOTES: Tyler’s Instagram Tyler’s YouTube Channel Full Metal Brisket (15a) Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
1 #152 Ned Feehally — Training For Micro Edges, Being A ‘Good’ Climber Vs Doing A Big Number, 9A Paddle Dyno’s, and A Standardized Beastmaker Board?! 1:31:04
1:31:04 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked1:31:04
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedNed Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He’s one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he’s flashed up to V14. How’s that for an intro?! Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Beastmaking”, and lately he’s been working on 2 new companies he started with his wife, Shauna Coxsey, “Foxy Climbing” and “Mini Beasts”. SHOW NOTES: Beastmaker Beastmaking Foxy Climbing Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
1 #151 Shauna Coxsey — The One Thing You Can’t Train, Olympics Are Harder Than Parenting, and The Difference Between Motivation and Commitment 1:44:29
1:44:29 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked1:44:29
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedShauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she’s a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14’s this past year. Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows exactly what makes her so incredible. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock ! Mad Rock’s mottos is “ CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.” SHOW NOTES: Shauna Coxsey Instagram Shauna Sending Mito (8B+/V14) Foxy Climbing Mad Rock Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
1 #150 [BONUS] Emil Abrahamsson — Long Term YouTube Goals, Recommendations To The Pro’s, Will Ondra Flash V15?, and The # Of V17’s In The World 18:02
18:02 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked18:02
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedThis is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished. Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17’s in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 or doing V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW NOTES: Emil’s Instagram Emil’s YouTube Channel Tension Climbing Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
1 #149 Emil Abrahamsson — Avoiding Audience Capture, Winning The Arnold Classic, Why He’s A “Lunatic”, and Gaining The Right Kind Of Weight 1:35:23
1:35:23 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked1:35:23
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedEmil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel . Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times! Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as hard as V15. Find out how Emil balance YouTube with his love of climbing and how he responds to those that say he’s just a ‘YouTuber’ and not a ‘real climber’. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW NOTES: Emil’s Instagram Emil’s YouTube Channel Tension Climbing Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
1 #148 [BONUS] Kenny Suh — MORE Shocking Industry Tell All, How Most Shoe Companies Came To Exist, and $300 Climbing Shoes?! 48:10
48:10 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked48:10
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedThis is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny , #147 . Please listen to that episode first for context! Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chili, Black Diamond, So iLL, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mammut, Edelrid, Yosemite Bum, Cypher... did we forget anyone? Oh ya, Unparrallel! You can't miss that one... Enjoy this deep dive on the usually opaque world of climbing gear manufacturing! SHOW NOTES: Kenny's Previous Episode On Testpiece, #147 Kenny Suh Instagram Article About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder) Mad Rock Instagram Mad Rock Website Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
1 #147 Kenny Suh — Shocking Industry Tell All (The NDA’s Have EXPIRED), Who Actually Makes Your Shoes?, CEO Of Mad Rock, “Finger Condoms”, and Shoes In 2030 Will Be Made Like This 1:41:49
1:41:49 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked1:41:49
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedKenny Suh is the CEO of Mad Rock . Kenny tells us all of the behind the scenes of how climbing shoes are made, WHO actually makes them, the impossible tradeoffs in rubber, how shoes will be made in the future, and some of the innovations of the past and the potential ones in the future. Really fun one that exposes the behind the scenes of shoe making and sheds a surprising light on what’s actually going on. SHOW NOTES: Kenny Suh Instagram Article About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder) Mad Rock Instagram Mad Rock Website Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
1 #146 Chris Weidner — First 14c At 50, The Invention Of Kneepads, Member #112 At The 1st US Gym, and How Ice Climbing Helped Chris Send 14c 1:54:25
1:54:25 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked1:54:25
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedChris Weidner just sent his first 14c at the young age of 50 years old. Hidden beneath that spectacular achievement is a pyramid of climbing all over the world in many different styles, from FA’ing multi pitch 5.13 trad to summiting mountains in Alaska and Argentina. All of this started when he became member #112 at the first climbing gym in the US! You’ll also recognize Chris’ voice from his years as a commentator for US Nationals and Psicobloc competitions. SHOW NOTES: Chris’ Instagram Chris on The Green Mile (14c) by LT11 Chris on the FA of Galmbers Fallacy (13b multi pitch FA) by LT11 Kong Extendo Cheater Draw Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
1 #145 [BONUS] Chris Schulte — Throw It All Away, Fontainebleau Recommendations, and Earning ‘Those Moments’ 14:44
14:44 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked14:44
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedThis is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte , right after Episode #144 was finished. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #144 for context! SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s Instagram Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page Chris Schulte’s Testpiece Episode #144 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
1 #144 Chris Schulte — Chasing Adventure And History, The Origins Of ‘Compression’ Climbing, Bouldering In The 1800’s, and Why “Leave No Trace” Doesn’t Scale 2:03:56
2:03:56 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked2:03:56
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedChris Schulte has been there and FA’d that. You may know of Chris, but you probably haven’t met him because Chris likes to stay off the beaten path. Way off the beaten path! In this episode Chris drops so much knowledge and history about climbing that no matter who you are you’ll enjoy some new stories that you haven’t heard before. SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s Instagram Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page Josh on French Tickler in Hueco (filmed by Chris) Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
1 #143 Simon Lorenzi — The Surprising Reason V18 Is So Difficult, Benchmark V16 And V17 Boulders, 9c Vs 9A, ‘Perfect’ Isn’t Perfect, and Why Climbing Is The Best Sport Ever 1:45:03
1:45:03 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked1:45:03
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedSimon Lorenzi has done more V17’s on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there’s a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt! That’s because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17’s there. This was an INCREDIBLE conversation with one of the best boulderers in the world. This is a must listen! If you loved Simon as much as we do, we’ve got great news… you can get trained by him through his company Bushido Climbing ! SHOW NOTES: Bushido Climbing Simon Lorenzi’s Instagram Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
1 #142 Tyler Nelson & Rob Hunter — Doubling Finger Strength As A 48 Year Old V14 Climber, “Squeezing The Lemon”, Focusing On Muscular Gains Over Connective Tissue, and Intention Instead Of Numbers 1:47:51
1:47:51 Play Later Play Later Lists Like Liked1:47:51
Play Later Play Later Lists Like LikedTyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter ! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance . This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That’s a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V14 climber, 48 years old, and has 30+ years of hard training already under his belt. Rob is no stranger to training either as he recently retired as the Head Coach of the Irish Climbing Team, and has a degree in Sport Therapy. Tune in to hear more about the subtle change in finger training the was so successful for Rob. How “squeezing the lemon” can help with finger strength gains while simultaneously reducing injury risk and total fatigue. Learn about why we should focus on muscular adaptations during our training rather than connective tissue ones. And how intention is the key to strength gains instead of absolute numbers. Look below at the Show Notes for videos that help demonstrate the training talked about in the episode. SHOW NOTES: Rob Hunter’s Instagram Tyler Nelson’s Instagram Rob’s Business, My Therapy Physio Tyler’s Company, Camp 4 Human Performance Tyler’s YouTube Channel Tyler’s Demonstration Of Overcoming Isometrics Squeezing The Lemon / Orange Demonstration Tyler’s Demonstration Of “Finger Curling” Tyler’s Previous Testpiece Episode, #114 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…
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