Ep 556: Back to Basics -- European Classification Systems

Wine for Normal People

This week I take a fresh look at European Classification Systems, going into detail on the history of how and why they evolved, what the current EU scheme is based on, and what the major wine nations’ systems are structured (and how they differ from what the EU would like them to look like!).

I discuss:

• How Europe classified its wines to protect the names of specific products and link them to their place of origin, to the benefit of consumers and producers.
• A history of wine classifications from the monks in medieval Burgundy to the winemakers of Tokaj in the 1600s to Chianti, Port, and Bordeaux in the 1700s and 1800s.
• A detailed look at the evolution of the French classification system. I go through the steps that the French took to prevent fraud, protect the origin of their wines, and ultimately create the system off which the EU system is based.

I address the EU system with its two main categories:

-Wine without a geographic origin (table wine)

-Wine with a geographic origin:

Protected Geographical Indication (PGI): At least 85% of the grapes used have to come exclusively from the geographical area where the wine is actually made. These wines cover large areas, and a lot of grapes and winemaking methods are permitted. There is only a minor influence of place of origin

Protected Designation of Origin (PDO): Every part of the production, processing and preparation process must take place in the specific region. Grapes have to come exclusively from the geographical area where the wine is made. Origin and terroir are essential to the identity of the wine.

Then I review the major countries’ classification categories

France:

• Vin de France=Table wine
• IGP, indication géographique protégée (PGI)
• AOP=appellation d’origine protégée, often called AOC (contrôlée) (PDO)

Italy:

• Vino=Table Wine
• IGP=indicazione geografica protetta, producers frequently use the old IGT = indicazione geografica tipica (PGI)
• DOC = denominazione di origine controllata (PDO)
• DOCG = denominazione di origine controllata e garantita (PDO)
• DOP = denominazione di origine protetta, the new name, conforming to the EU standard that includes DOC and DOCG. DOP is rarely used (PDO)

Spain:

• Vino de España=Table wine
• IGP / VT = indicación geográfica protegida, usually called vino de la tierra (VT) (PGI)
• VC = vino de calidad con indicación geográfica (PDO)
• DO (DOP) = denominación de origen, sometimes called DOP (PDO)
• DOCa = denominación de origen calificada (PDO)
• VP = vino de pago (PDO)

Germany

• Deutscher Wein =Table wine
• Landwein =PGI
• Qualitätswein (also called Qba from the 13 regions, PDO)
• Prädikatswein – Prädikat means special attribute and refers to the ripeness of the grapes and the type of harvest. Pradikat levels:
  • Dry or sweet: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese
  • Sweet (expensive and rare): Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein

Other terms: Trocken is dry, Halbtrocken is “Half Dry” or “Off-Dry, “Feinherb” is an unofficial term for off-dry wine

The VDP is a German marketing organization that includes many of the country’s top producers. Producers can use the VDP eagle and the VDP classifications WITH “Qualitätswein” or “Prädikatswein”

• · Gutswein: First wines of a wine year to be bottled and sold, Estate-grown grapes
• · Ortsweine: Village wines
• · Erste Lage: Premier Cru wine from first-class vineyards
• · Grosse Lage: Grand cru or highest quality German vineyards. Dry wines within this category are called Grosse Gewächs or GG

Portugal (I don’t discuss in the show because it follows the French/EU model)

• Vinho=Table Wine
• IGP = indicação geográfica protegida, often called vinho regional (PGI)
• DOP = denominação de origem protegida, still sometimes called DOC, denominação de origem controlada (PDO)

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